The top is called the labeda, daura or mayelpose. It is a double-breasted kurta whose flaps are battened down in four places with ties, in a diagonal across the chest. The bottom is the suruwal; the same as what the British named jodhpurs,it is skin-tight around the calves, growing to incongruous pleated proportions around the groin.

Both labeda and suruwal came to the middle Himalaya from Rajasthan,

The topi was already there, and at some point during the time, the Western jacket arrived,to be called ‘coat’.

The dress now comes in four pieces: the topi which can be dented and fashioned to create individual signatures;

A most distinctive labeda top, the coat, which completely covers whatever is distinctive about the labeda; and the suruwal, an uncomfortable bottom that sometimes comes with a full legged inner (bhitri). Way back in 1980, a Kathmandu dignitary visiting London was spoofed in a television programme as having arrived at Heathrow in his longjohns.

Thelabeda-suruwal has come to represent the Gorkha community. Large bellies accentuated by the unflattering fall of the labeda. There is more that is comical about the dress: when the male goes to a sofa, he has first to reach tohis rear with two hands and flip the fall of the labeda up so that it rides up the back before he can sit. This is to save the ironing. Once the person is properly seated, members facing him are afforded a grandstand view of the dejected sac of pleated cloth gathered between the legs.

The greatest challenge faced by he who wears the labeda-suruwal is the visit to the bathroom is a secret.For who would want to share this embarrassment with the world? Let me lead you through the ritual step-by-delicate step.

1^st. Park your topi in your coat pocket.

2^nd. Unbutton your coat and shunt the two fronts aside.

3^rd. Turn the two front flaps of the labeda all the way up, and hold them there firmly with your chin against your chest.

4^th. Loosen the injaar or drawstring (if it has not become a gatho) and push the suruwal down.But remember to have both legs slightly akimbo so that you do not have the suruwal gathered at the ankles on the (wet…) floor.

If a true traditionalist, you will have a bhitri-suruwal, and will need to repeat the procedure before you are ready to water the closet.

Now if the law of the land does become compulsory for everyone to wear the daura suruwal through out the year then compute all the minutes spent struggling with the labeda-suruwal, and calculate an average two to three visits to the bathroom one very workday. Multiply the minutes with the number of male government employ,from the line ministries to the village development committees, and you will see how in Darjeeling development will be more retarded.

The lighterside:

Dipak : Som, bholee bhatnay hoina?

Jit       : Not possible yar. Rak bhai rakhako cha nee. Daura suruwalsukayki chaina.

Hording at the BIG BAZAR

BUY ONEDAURA AND GET ONE SURUWAL FREE